Pierra Menta

La Pierra Menta est une competition internationale de ski-alpinisme sure 4 jours (10000m de denivelee positive) dans le massif du Beaufortain Savoie France. The Pierra Menta is the namesake feature for this ski-mountaineering race, and it lies within view from the Saulire of Courchevel 1850. As Mike's 2 days off from work arrived, we decided a tour into Pierra Menta terrain would be a worthy use of the time. Of course the morning of day 1 we wake up to pounding snow and wind, but our "packed the night before" packs encouraged us to head out the door anyway. French snow can be analogous to Pacific Northwest concrete, especially as one retreats in elevation. The slop and glop turns quickly to an icy mass, and the hair-pin turns allowing our descent from Courchevel won't let us forget it! The little diesel Citroen performed well, and as we hit the valley floor we charged for the town of Aime where the next series of hair-pin turns brings us to the trailhead. Eyeing each other nervously, we noticed the gloppy roads prove a bit more challenging on the upward train. Just as we started wondering if an alternate plan for the day might be a good idea, our little white Citroen starting spinning, then sliding, then............. rotating..........and in amazing slow motion we watched a 180 view of the landscape around us before the van nestled into a snow bank facing the way we had come. Just as we thought this was a hint from the ski Gods to turn around and come back another day, a diesel Volkswagon van came charging up the hill next to us. A young friendly frenchman poked his head out the window and asked if we had chains (among other things that we couldn't translate with the diesel rumble in the background). As he realized that we neither had chains, nor did we speak Fre

nch with a British accent, he asked where we were going and where were we from. We explained we're American, and we're headed to the trailhead for the Refuge Presset. He seemed impressed.........or maybe surprised..........but he jumped out, starting chaining his Volkswagon, and attached a towline to our Citroen. We quickly realized he too was a skier, and his van was stacked with randonee skis. Once he pulled us out of the snowbank, we decided a ride in the Volkswagon might be a safer way to conquer the slippery road. We parked our defeated Citroen safely down the road and jumped into the Volkswagon. Now charging uphill, we learned that our friendly French saviour was a Physics/Chemistry high school teacher that also headed up an outdoor program for his school. He had organized a day out on skis for his students, but with the bad weather was deciding to opt for another day. Originally he was headed to a lower tra

ilhead with gentle slopes for his students, but with the bad weather he placed a call to cancel the trip for the day. He said our Citroen in the snowbank diversion gave him a good reason to be out, and he was happy to drive an American pisteur to a favorite trailhead. He dropped us off with a handshake to Mike and the customary 2 cheek kisses to me.

We listened to the diesel rumble down the hillside as we stood in the pounding snow hoping our stubbornness would pay off in a positive way. The next several hours were consumed with slogging blindly in the wind and snow. Every few minutes, we pulled out the map to imagine what the terrain around us might look like. Continually, we hoped the beta we received in French from a friend had been accurately translated. As we foggily slogged on carefully making navigation decisions, we felt the eerie looming of dramatic terrain around us. Landmarks correctly presented themselves encouraging us on, and eventually a horizon opened as the white-ness lifted just enough for us to make out the first refuge perched above us........La Balme Refuge Communal. Our intended destination was the Refuge Presset which we'd been told is situated on a higher perch providing be

tter views of the Pierra Menta and surrounding terrain. Looking higher into the white-ness beyond, we started feeling lucky we'd made it this far and decided settling in here for the night might be just fine.

The refuge had an eerie echo. We were lucky to have the place to ourselves, but the line of bunks complete with pillows and folded blankets expressed the hustle and bustle that the refuge often experienced. Firing up the wood stove, we settled in to dry out and make dinner. Refuge life was comfortingly similar to 10th Mountain hut living in Colorado, and we were grateful to find shelter from the Everest simulator outside.

The next day, we were aptly rewarded for our efforts. Pristine blue skies paired with calm windless mountain air motivated us out of the bunk, on to Refuge Presset followed by a tour to Col du Bresson over to Mont Rosset and fun turns back to the trailhead. New snow provided fun skiing but dictated conservative navigation in light of the increased avalanche danger. Spectacular views of the Pierra Menta emerged everywhere we turned.